A still mountain lake mirroring the peaks under a soft, warm dawn
A love letterCanada

Three weeks,
and a small house on wheels

This is for the version of us that drove from the Pacific into the mountains and back, and came home changed. Max & Samantha, written down so it stays.

Read the letter

Dear Sam,

Before the days blur and the photos turn into just photos, I wanted to write this down. Not a list of places, but the feeling of them - the ferry crossings and the cold mornings, the coffee made badly on a tailgate, the way the road kept giving us reasons to slow down.

What follows is the trip in four chapters, the way I remember it. Read it slowly. We were never in a hurry.

A quiet forested coastline on the edge of Vancouver at dusk
Somewhere west, the first evening.
IWhere it beganVancouver · the first days

We met the sea before we met the road

The city smelled of rain and cedar. We picked up the van in the late afternoon, learned which cupboard rattled, and drove until the streetlights gave way to water.

That first night we cooked badly and laughed about it, the harbour lights bleeding across the windscreen. Three weeks ahead of us and no real plan - only each other, and a direction.

Warm light over the rugged coast of Vancouver Island
A beach we will never find again.
IIOut where the land endsVancouver Island · a slow week

The island taught us to go slowly

We took the ferry across with the windows down, salt in our hair, the mainland shrinking behind us. On the island the days lost their edges - surf in the morning, old-growth in the afternoon, no clocks worth keeping.

You found a beach nobody else had. I made coffee on the tailgate and we watched the tide pull the light out to sea. It is the closest I have come to time stopping.

A glacial lake ringed by jagged peaks at first light in the Rockies
Moraine, before the world woke up.
IIIThe road climbedThe Rockies · into the high country

Mountains the colour of morning

East from the coast the road tilted upward. We woke before the sun to stand at the edge of lakes so blue they looked invented, our breath hanging in the cold, no one else awake.

We soaked in the hot springs above Banff while it snowed, somehow, in summer. You said you could live like this. I think I already was.

The sun setting over a mountain lake on the journey home
The last light, pointed home.
IVTurning backHome, the long way · the last days

We drove west into our own beginning

There is a particular ache to a trip that is ending well. We took the long way back, stretching every pass, every roadside coffee, every quiet pull-off, as if slowness could keep it.

The coast was waiting where we left it. We were not. We came home a little different, the way you do when you have seen something together that you cannot quite say out loud.

Soft morning light filling the cozy interior of the camper van

The interlude

Our smallest house, and our favourite

The Indie Camper was four square metres of everything we needed. A bed that became a sofa, a stove that fit one good pan, a window that framed a different country every morning.

We parked where the view was best and called it home. It turns out you do not need much room to be happy, only the right person to run out of it with.

“Home was wherever we parked it.”

A few frames between the words

A couple sitting together watching the sunset by their car in the mountains
Trees beside a mountain lake glowing in golden hour light
A campsite by a lake beneath a sky full of stars
Morning sunlight pouring through a camper van window